Cliffs of Moher

The parents were staying last week and I brought them to the Cliffs of Moher. It's years since we've been - not since the new interpretive centre was built. There was such a fuss about that centre built at the height of the 'we've got more money than sense' years. It cost 31 million euro to build. Imagine. 31 million. I used to like the Cliffs as they were and always thought this was a dreadful waste of money. Interpretive centres to show you what you should be looking at in reality - how ridiculous, how made for a money market of tourists who don't really care but arrive on a bus from America or wherever to tick off another place on the itinerary. I especially thought the cost of this project outrageous, and the charges Clare County Council were initially charging outrageous. Many agreed. The papers were full of it. Clare CC got a huge amount of stick and coach drivers parked outside on the road to avoid the over-the-top costs.

Since then the price of parking and entry has been reduced and I finally went along to see was it worth it. My initial thought was that no, it wasn't, but now I'm not so sure. I was reading about it on the Construct Ireland website and this is how it describes the way the Cliffs used to be:

'It was a couple of tumbledown stone stable buildings with ad hoc Portakabins added on for toilets. There was a septic tank that wasn’t functioning and was spewing out all over the place and it was surrounded by surface carpark. Basically, when you came up from Liscannor, it was scarring the landscape.” More importantly, the site itself had become hazardous. Eroded walkways, subsidence and inadequate safety measures had made it very difficult to police effectively. “What has been going on over recent years was absolutely crazy.” Says project leader Ger Dollard of Clare County Council. “It was frightening what was happening.”'

I suppose I was nostalgic for my first visits to the cliffs aeons ago when the place was littered with bad buskers and mad people sat on the very edge of the cliffs, legs dangling so that even to look at them from the corner of my eye gave me vertigo. We ourselves climbed onto the grass high up on the cliffs in spring sunshine and looked across the bay to the Twelve Bens in Connemara, peering down at the puffins and kittiwakes below. I didn't think about where the toilet waste was going, although I did think about the dangers for the perching people and how amazing it was that they were left to do this. But somehow I liked that. The lack of organisation, the being left to take your own risks if you wanted to.

So now we have a building in the hillside with many 'eco' features: 'Solar panels take care of most of the hot water needs. A geothermal system looks after both heating and cooling. An onsite wastewater treatment plant facilitates large-scale grey water recycling while a high-spec building management system allows energy requirements to be closely monitored and managed'.

I suppose the question as always is how much should you provide at these places? I suppose for the tourist money you have to have the shops - so much merchandise on sale at the Cliffs now - and you have to have the restaurant, the exhibition space - showing huge photos of the cliffs from all aspects in the domed exhibition space. I would have been dismissive of this before - better to have the real experience and all that - but it was brilliant for my dad whose eyesight is very poor, and for my mum who has a bad knee and can't walk far at the moment.

There is certainly more walkway to walk up and down, and they've put Lisannor flags on their sides to keep people off the edge. It looks ok. I didn't go anywhere near the top (elderly parents etc) so can't judge that bit. On a blustery day in April there were a good few people there. The upstairs cafe had great views. Nice toilets, presumably not spewing into the beautiful ocean.

So do I support what they've done? I still think 31 million euro is a ridiculous amount of money to spend when, to be honest, people would go there anyway and probably be happy with a lot less. Don't know what it cost to get in though. I'd read the website before we went so knew we could park close to the buildings rather than on the other side of the road. You stop at the barrier, press the intercom button, and say 'I have a car with two disabled passengers.' Up goes the barrier. We weren't asked for money at any point.

In my garden...

I've just been down in the hollow putting sticking plaster on a few holes in the polytunnel. It has its own special type of sticking plaster - like a very thick sellotape. For the last couple of years I've been expecting to have to get new plastic on the tunnel - it's past its ten-year life expectancy - but it keeps on going. And now it has wondrous new doors. When it was new Joe fixed roll-down plastic to the openings at each end, but they were made from ordinary polythene that disintegrated in the sunlight. So I've had wind-break fabric only. Now I have this set of splendid doors:

I'll be able to plant out the tomatoes much earlier than in previous years. Well, I will when the roll-down polythene is attached to the other end. We have the polytunnel plastic and I have a Mr Fix-It who's going to do it this weekend as long as it doesn't piss down the whole time. 








Finally everything is going green. There's a haze on the trees in the valley. The whitethorn is in leaf (except most of the new ones I planted - hope they're not dead) and the apple tree buds are bursting. Heard the first Willow Warbler and Blackcap today from the haggard and Joe saw a swallow flying over. Not one of 'our' swallows though - just passing through, reminding itself of the terrain, checking what's changed since last year.

The wood anemones are in full flower.

And there's so many small plants to the square foot. Here we've violet, barren strawberry, lesser stitchwort and pignut. Pignut is an interesting one - it's the feathery leaves in the photo. If you dig it up - which the badgers regularly do (and presumably pigs) - you'll find small little nuts underground. It is these edible roots that people were gathering in May:

Here we go gathering nuts in May,

Nuts in May, nuts in May,

Here we go gathering nuts in May,

On a cold and frosty morning.

Boater Floating

Home

Out on the water again. We arrived at Quivvy Marine just outside Belturbet on Friday after spending Thursday night in Carrick-on-Shannon. We hadn't meant to go to Carrick. We were intending, due to indecisiveness, to stay at home, do some gardening perhaps, go to a play at the local Drama Festival then the session in Shortt's in Feakle. Maybe stay in the van in Feakle.

But we were packing up the van on Thursday and the initial plan of the week before kicked in. Once you have the van half packed you simply have to get in it and drive off into the wide blue yonder. Or, in our case, Carrick. Going to Belturbet via Carrick is not our usual route. Not the best way at all in fact. But we hadn't intended to go that far. We began by postulating Shannon Harbour as a stopping place. Then it was Hodson Bay just beyond Athlone. Then it was Lecarrow just beyond Hodson Bay. By this time we were up the wrong side of Lough Ree for Belturbet via the sensible route and it certainly wasn't the best way to Carrick, but we were into the drive and a curry called.

We didn't have a curry either in the end. We stopped off in The Oarsman for a pint of their fine ale, and it was so warm and cosy, and we were chilled through after walking the dogs in the bitter cold. There was a table by the fire and a good menu, so we stopped. Then out to Leitrim Village just up the road to spend the night in the wonderfully quiet harbour.

Next day to Quivvy to unwrap Winter Solstice from her covers. She was all zipped in good and tight and we didn't know whether the engines would start - there was a good chance they wouldn't after months of inactivity and all that freezing weather. And only one of them did. But I won't go into the tedium of it all. Joe, with the help of David Cole whose marina it is, fixed it. And on Saturday morning in bright sunshine off we went around the corner to Galloon, just across the border in Co Fermanagh. A little try-out of everything. Galloon has a very strange and interesting graveyard. It's small, as is Galloon (it's just a townland I think). Very old and battered headstones. Several of which look like this:

It seems that at one time there were four high crosses here, but only the partial shafts of two of them remain. Many of the headstones are 18th and 19th century. We were told a couple of years ago that the images on the headstones related to the Masons.




On a more prosaic, but perhaps more useful note (unless you are dead and need burying) there's also a fine new toilet block in Galloon that replaces an ugly old pre-fab. No showers though. They were good showers too, and free.

After Galloon it was off to Crom Castle for lunch and a walk. I love Crom. Everything about it is wonderful. The jetty, the fact you can enter by the back door and feel like you own the place, the walks, especially to the old castle where Aoife flings herself onto the soft grass and rolls and rolls. Or poses between avenues of trees.

Lunch was great too. A picnic packed in the van. Paté, two good cheeses, tiny tomatoes, bread. And next thing Joe is rummaging around in the bilges and comes out with a bottle of Prosecco. Sigh. So deliciously decadent.

Crom was busy. We were deeply affronted by this. Other people? How dare they. Fishermen on the jetty, two other cruisers with the same idea as us. We could (almost) forgive the boats. But then as we set out on the walk hordes, absolute hordes, appeared from god knows what nooks and crannies and followed us. Back the other way we went in full dudgeon, then veered off to the boat for lunch to quell our rumbling stomachs. Felt much better after that. So mellow, in fact, that we were absolutely civil to the returning walkers. Especially as they were returning, and we were not.

More Crom pics:

On the Long Walk

In Galway on the Long Walk at the place where the Corrib joins the sea. Big sky, many types of gull and a heron who walks sedately across the road in front of you to wait at a doorway for scraps. It is, it seems, a regular occurrence. Look at it standing patiently, just as still as if it were watching for frogs or fish. It isn't plastic, I swear:

I'm not sure if I find this endearing or disturbing. Herons should surely be birds that are completely wild. The ones we see on the river would never, I'm sure, lower themselves to stand on pavements. On the other hand maybe this is the clever lad or ladess.

Up the track the other morning towards Jones's to pick up some litter. Our road is a favourite for those selfish ignorant people who think others should have to contemplate the detritus from their pathetic lives. So we get bin liners full of plastic bottles, tins, cardboard packaging and so on. Much of what they chuck can be put in the local recycling bins for free. The plastic bags get into the drain and carried down in the rush of winter (and summer) water, catches on briars and branches where the bin liner breaks and distributes its contents liberally all the way down. Or wedges into inaccessible places. This one's been bugging me for a few months:

It was stuck fast so I came prepared with a vicious hooky thing on a pole. Finally got it out. Then up to the next lot. This isn't people coming to places they think nobody inhabits, but our farming neighbour. Bale wrap. It's everywhere. In the hedges and caught in briars beside the road. And on the entry to the forestry up the road from us where we walk the dogs every morning. Do they not see it?

Turn around and you're back to the beauty of the mountains while under your feet is endless crap.

Rant ended. Pretty picture taken from the spot in the pic above.

Frogs and trees, but not tree frogs

When I look out of the bedroom window there appears to be a minor earthquake in the Haggard - the water in the pond is swilling about even though there's no wind. There are waves and swirls and wide wide ripples.

It's the frogs, of course, and this is very mild activity to what will come over the next couple of weeks as the head count goes up (literally - that's all you can see of them from a distance) and efforts to mate become more frantic. From the courtyard there is a steady purring sound, rhythmic, soothing. If you manage to get close up without the frogs diving for cover you can see the cheeks of the males puffing out as they produce this astonishing, endless sound.






 

Other spring activities - we've been cutting things back. Joe has been busy with the chainsaw over the last few weeks, cutting down a few ash trees for fuel. They'll grow again of course, ready for another cut in seven or eight years time. And yesterday we had a couple of tree cutting men up to take down a full-grown sycamore. Joe has been talking about knocking this one for a while, but I resisted. It's a mature tree, standing proud beside the beautiful copper beech in the Grove.

It's what I look out at from my kitchen window, and have thought of it as one of two guardians. However, I finally came round to the idea over the winter months. It blocked a lot of light, it's 'only' a sycamore (not a native tree) and it gets black spot on its leaves in late summer every year. Beyond is another copper beech, the growth of which is limited by this sycamore. In summer it blocks the late evening sunlight. We would be lit up for much longer on the terrace and in the kitchen if it wasn't there.

So down it came. I couldn't look at first, felt guilty, saw the branches had been full of lichen - the beardy type that only grows in places without air pollution. On the walk afterwards I became obsessed with looking for trees with this bearded lichen, then Googled it. The Latin name is Usnea, and it has many uses I hadn't realised. It's a medicinal plant, having antibiotic and antifungal qualities - it was useful for treating wounds before the days of antibiotics, its hairlike fibres acting as a form of gauze.


We do have other lichened trees - the old apples in the Haggard and the oaks bordering the field beyond. There are others on the surrounding land and up the road towards Jones's.

I've also done some planting. One of the men who came to cut the tree has a small nursery on the other side of Tuamgraney, and just before he left he offered me a bunch of bare-rooted whitethorns. That morning I'd been thinking about getting some whitethorns for the 'hedge' I'm growing along the fence that runs along the Rough Side. I knew I hadn't much time left - bare-rooted stock has to go in before the end of February (or thereabouts) while the plants are still dormant. I probably wouldn't have got round to it. So in they went. Eleven new native trees. Guilt lessened. A bit.

Sparrowhawk dinner

The sparrowhawk just whooshed around the bird table again. I'm fairly sure it was a female, big and slate grey, although according to my bird book it's the smaller male that usually takes tits and finches. That's the second time this week. It happened so fast it was difficult to see if she got anything.

I think she left empty-clawed when she called on Tuesday - walking up the track with the dogs a while later there was a pile of feathers on the verge that looked freshly plucked. I'm pretty sure it was the remains of a woodcock - the feathers are distinctive, and its the only bird we regularly get around here with this type of stripe.

The woodcock is one of those birds with astonishing camouflage. I see them at dusk flying up from the edge of the forestry. They look very angular in flight, and make a big clattery fuss of it, zigzagging away.





Here's a photo of one in a pile of leaves. You could tread on it if it kept quite still.







I called at the Irish Seed Savers Association yesterday to pick up my order of seeds and potatoes - members can pick five packets of seeds and one sowing of potatoes. I'm trying some new varieties this year. There's an old rare heritage parsnip called Bedford Monarch, a turnip (Tipperary Turnip), Mexican Midget tomato, which doesn't sound local, and Yerevan Parsley which definitely isn't local. It says on the packet that the original seeds were brought back from an Armenian market place.

The potatoes are first earlies and are an old English variety - Sharpe's Express. I also got some garlic, one I've had before called Lautrec. A few years ago I bought a selection of garlics from the Isle of Wight Garlic Farm, and this was one of theirs that did well. Last year, however, it was poor, so I needed to replace my stock. Apparently French gourmands class it as the best tasting of all French garlic, and they should know. Not sure why the Seed Savers have it though, as it's widely available.

The Seed Savers buildings and gardens are in the middle of the Clare countryside just outside Scarriff, accessed by a tiny lane. As I was leaving the  building in the lashing rain there was a Rolls Royce stopped outside the door (not parked in the designated parking place note). It was an 08 Dublin registration, and seemed full of people peering out through the wetness. Back in my car I sat and ate my occasional addiction - a dark chocolate-covered marzipan bar - while waiting for the reappearance of the car. I was intrigued. What could it be doing in a place like this?

It didn't reappear, so it wasn't one of those mistaken drives around the countryside looking for something to do. Had it not been lashing I'd have gone back up to be nosey.

Ponies in the mist

The ponies are back. This time they're in the fields below the house - a network of many acres that goes down to the Assness, a river that on the maps is called the Corra but that everyone round here calls this different, local, name. I think it refers to the many fabulous waterfalls on the stretch of river.

The ponies have been there for a few days now, reappearing up near the house every so often then disappearing down the fields again. I'm happy to see them. They're half wild and it must be tough in a winter like we've had with no extra feed. I'm intrigued as to how they broke in. Our neighbour keeps his fences well mended, and they certainly didn't come up the track to our house like the last time. Clever creatures, ponies, much brighter than most of their bigger horse cousins.

Yesterday one of the ponies was half lost in mist as I set out with the dogs. The valley had been full of fluffy white cloud early in the morning - a typical winter state where we feel aloft as though in an aircraft high above Out There. As we left the house the garden was filling with a soft mist. A deer bounded away across the field above the house. The mist followed us up the track towards Jones's broken down cottage and near the top I looked back through a tunnel of fog. A thrush was singing high in the forest. It was one of those uplifting moments when the familiar becomes suddenly, briefly unfamiliar and you see the beauty of where you are.

Back home and looking out of the kitchen window the crocuses had their little yellow cups open to the sun. The frogs are singing in the pond. Even though the rain is back as I write this, there is no stopping the spring. The seed potatoes and onion sets arrived in the post yesterday. The panic season is almost upon us.